Indian Time - A Voice from the Eastern Door

The Iroquois Museum (Howes Cave, NY) announces the opening of BUCKSKIN TO BIKINIS: HAUDENOSAUNEE WEARABLE ART. While handcrafted outfits and regalia remain central to Haudenosaunee ceremonial and social life, Bikinis showcases 3-dimensional constructions by artists and designers who push the boundaries of style and fashion far beyond cultural tradition to explore the capacity of apparel to embody personal and/or political identity, address stereotypes, culture change, and other elements of Native experience.

The exhibit features sumptuous formal wear, urban graffiti-inspired accessories, fabulous footwear and of course...swimwear. Represented are 25 artist/designers including Elizabeth Doxtater from Six Nations, Bruno Henry from Wikwemikong, Ontario, Leah Shenandoah from Oneida, NY, Carla Hemlock and Tammy Beauvais from Kahnawake, Niio Perkins, Stacey Mitchell, and Marlana Thompson from Akwesasne, Ken Williams and Frank Buffalo Hyde from Santa Fe, Coleen Bins and Susan House from Oneida, Wisconsin, Samatha Moses and Ike Hopper from Onondaga, Felicia Nicosia-Ramirez, Jon Ann Capasso and Alyza Bowen from Cattaraugus and Allegany, Melanie Printup from Tuscarora, and others.

A wide range of materials, styles, and inspiration distinguishes this visual tapestry of color and texture. Centuries-old beadwork, wampum, and pottery patterns, references to Creation and other stories are reinterpreted in a vibrant explosion of bangles, beads, and bling. Leather, fur, and feathers are wrested from the trivialization of stereotype-artfully reclaimed to be donned as ancient and rightful connection to heritage. In the unlikeliest and most unexpected of forms, old ways and principles are honored, upheld, and moved forward.

Others, such as Niio Perkins, Erin Lee Antonak, and Peter Loran re-purpose elements from the powwow circuit or popular culture, styling with a 40's silhouette or a hip hop vibe. Antique store treasures, materials from a global marketplace, and an intense love of color sustain infinite possibilities.

Clothing is also deftly reinterpreted as sculptural canvas, functioning not as body covering, but rather as position statement and contemporary commentary. One such piece, "Akwesasne the Little Boy," is a central element of the exhibition. A metaphoric statement conceived and begun by the late Salli Benedict and added to by her family and friends, the double-layered coat illustrates the tumultuous history of a community physically severed by the United States and Canada and its tenacious and ongoing recovery. Constructed on human scale, works by Ken Williams, Carla Hemlock, Kathryn Hopkins, Frank Buffalo Hyde, and others become intentionally personal-their politically or philosophically charged subjects precisely calculated to evoke action, reaction, and reflection. Individual differences not withstanding, each of these 25 artists shares a passion to birth new work that conveys beauty, power and purpose.

"The intent of the exhibit is three-fold," the exhibition's curator explained. "We wanted to introduce our mostly non-native visitors to the imaginative and deeply thoughtful work coming out of Iroquois country today and we wanted to put the controversy about stylistic appropriation into context. And, as a 34 year old institution, it's equally important that we give a leg up to up and coming future designers."

"Akwesasne the Little Boy" coat, outer layer, by Salli Benedict,  Benedict family & friends

An Opening Reception will be held on Sat, April 4, 1 – 3 PM with guest speaker Dr. Jessica Metcalfe (Turtle Mountain Chippewa). Metcalfe, a foremost Indigenous fashion scholar and the founder of Beyond Buckskin Blog and Boutique, will present "Skywoman Lands on the Runway," a look at the history of contemporary Native fashion and share her insights about selected works in the exhibition.

Instrumental to the exhibit's development were consultants Elizabeth Doxtater, Jessica Metcalfe, and Felicia Nicosia-Ramirez. Buckskin to Bikinis was generously supported by a grant from the Coby Foundation, Ltd. and the New York Council for the Humanities and will be open from April 4 – November 30, 2015. Color catalog with essays by Jessica Metcalfe and Ryan Rice available. http://www.iroquoismuseum.org for info and events. Iroquois Museum, Caverns Road, Howes Cave, NY info@iroquoismuseum.org 518-296-8949.